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WALKING ON A LOOSE LEASH
By Debbie Kaminski
Did you know that a puppy pulls on the leash because he is
being rewarded for it? It’s true. When a puppy pulls on the
leash and is jerked backward but the owner continues walking
forward, it only teaches the puppy to pull harder. The method
outlined below teaches the puppy how to walk on a loose leash in a
positive way and makes leash walking an enjoyable experience for
both you and the pup.
When training, remember these key points:
* Keep each session very short. A few minutes are sufficient.
It is important to stop the lesson BEFORE the puppy shows any signs
of tiring.
* Crating your puppy for 10 minutes after the lesson will help
it to absorb what it has learned.
* Always praise before rewarding with treats because
eventually, the treats will be eliminated and the puppy will be
working for your praise alone.
* Use small, soft treats (i.e., sliced hot dogs, string
cheese) when training because they are easier for the puppy to
swallow.
* This method may seem like a long, drawn out process but most
puppies pick up on it very quickly and it doesn’t take much
time at all. Do not be alarmed if certain steps take your puppy much
longer to learn and do not be afraid to back up a step if you feel
your puppy is not making progress. Just like us, puppies sometimes
need a refresher course!
Step 1: Accepting the Collar and
Leash
As soon as your puppy becomes accustomed to his new home, you
can start to teach him to walk on a loose leash. Begin by getting
him used to wearing a buckle collar. It should be lightweight and
made of nylon or fabric. The collar should fit snugly behind the
puppy’s ears so it cannot slip off his head. Some puppies will
scratch at the collar the first time you put it on but very soon, he
will learn to ignore it. At this point, attach a very lightweight
leash to the collar and let him drag it around for several minutes
at a time. Be sure to supervise your puppy during each session
because it will be very easy for him to become tangled. Practice
this step indoors with no distractions present (other dogs, people,
etc.). As soon as the puppy is no longer bothered by the leash, its
time to move on to the next step.
Step 2: Standing on a Loose Leash
Now that your puppy is accustomed to the leash, the next step
is for the puppy to stand on a loose leash. Again, you want to begin
this exercise in a quiet location, preferably indoors. It’s
extremely helpful to work in a small room with the door closed. That
way, it’s just you, your puppy and a handful of treats. In the
beginning, let the puppy know you have food because he will be more
likely to stick near you. When the puppy is standing next to you
calmly, PRAISE and feed him treats. Praise is very important. Keep
your voice lively and use different words ("What a good puppy,
that’s it, you’re doing a great job, yes"). This
exercise will teach your puppy that when you’re holding the
leash and he’s near you, he gets goodies. NOTE: If your puppy
is not motivated by treats, try working with him before his mealtime
when he’s hungry. Once your puppy can stand next to you on a
loose leash, you’re ready to…
Step 3: Start Moving
Begin the lesson in a quiet location and have plenty of treats
on hand. It may not be possible to do this indoors, but at least
your backyard or another quiet place that is familiar to your puppy.
With the puppy standing beside you on the left side, start walking
in a large circle to the left (approximately 30 feet in diameter).
Since you will be leaning into the turn all the way around, this
will curtail any pulling motion from the puppy. The idea is to get a
walking rhythm with you and the puppy. When the puppy is beside you,
praise and treat. When your puppy is comfortable with this exercise,
start taking him to different places. Large fields work nicely. At
this point, it’s OK if there are some distractions present but
not too many. Remember, he’s still learning! You will probably
have to stay at this step for several days. Remember to stop the
lesson before your puppy shows signs of tiring. An older puppy or
dog will be able to train a little longer.
Step 4: Coming Down the Homestretch
Next, we want to teach the puppy to walk in a straight line.
Just as with each previous step, you should work in a familiar,
quiet place. It’s best to begin each session with a few large
circles to the left to get the puppy used to the rhythm and the
food. Once the circle has been established, come out of the circle
and take a few steps in a straight line. By this time, the puppy
knows you have food and will probably stick near you. In the event
the puppy does start pulling, simply STOP. Do not snap the leash.
Since the puppy is not moving forward and you still have the food he
will probably look back at you. When he does praise profusely and
show him a treat which you will hold at your left side. The puppy
must come to you to get the treat. If it helps, pretend like your
hand is glued to your left leg. Do not take any steps forward
towards the puppy. Once the puppy returns to you, begin walking
forward again. If the puppy continues to pull, you may have to back
up a step and work more circles to the left. When you are able to
take several steps with the pup at your side, praise, treat and then
release. Two good release words are "OK" and "FREE".
Whatever release word you choose, it’s important to stick with
it throughout your training. After releasing the puppy, play for a
few minutes before continuing with the lesson. Gradually, you can
take more and more steps before you release the puppy…just
remember to praise, treat and then release. When you see that your
puppy is getting the hang of it, it’s time to move him to
different places. When he’s walking nicely in different places
with distractions present, it’s time to move on to the next
step.
Step 5: What? No Food
At this step, food is decreased very gradually. From now on,
the puppy will have to work harder to get rewarded. In other words,
he’ll have to walk under control a greater distance before he
gets a treat. Continue to praise as long as he’s not pulling on
the leash. Remember, if he starts slipping into bad habits, you may
have to go back to working large circles to the left. If he
occasionally pulls, just STOP and hold a treat near your leg and let
the puppy return to you. He only gets treats when he’s at your
side. Some larger puppies and older dogs can be very obstinate when
it comes to walking on a leash. They are very strong and they know
it. Especially when walking in new areas…the sights and smells
are wonderful and your dog’s desire to pull can become stronger
than even getting fed by you. In this case… TURN AROUND When
your dog pulls, simply turn and go the opposite direction. There is
no need to "pop" the dog on a choke collar for this to
work. A plain buckle collar will work nicely as long as your turn is
very deliberate. Don’t look back at the dog or coax it in any
way, just change direction. When he’s walking under control,
praise and feed at your side.
Now, let’s go for a walk!
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